
Sangamithirai – Where Every Dish Tells a Story!
When discussing the foods of Tamil Nadu, many people may not realize that there is a rich diversity in regional Tamil cuisine, with distinct flavors and cooking techniques varying across different areas. At Feathers Hotel @feathershotel, the management, along with Executive Chef Murthi @chefmurthi and the kitchen staff, devoted several months to researching the regional Tamil cuisines by traveling to various parts of Tamil Nadu.

Housewives from various regions of Tamil Nadu were also invited to showcase their traditional recipes, and many eventually joined the restaurant to prepare their specialties. Chef Murthi explained that women often cook with deep emotion, and even when preparing food for the restaurant, they take care to roast the spices and other essential ingredients, grinding them using traditional grinding stone. The outcome of their efforts is the exquisite restaurant, Sangamithirai where each dish tells a story of its origin.

During my visit to the restaurant, Chef Murthi and his team prepared several dishes from the Sangamithirai menu. I was pleasantly surprised to be presented with a tray featuring approximately seven condiments, along with a basket of pappadums and fryums. One dish that particularly caught my attention was the Agathi Keerai Podi (Vegetable Hummingbird Leaves Powder). I never imagined a spiced powder could be made from this leafy vegetable. The powder was coarse and moderately spiced, with a distinct aroma of agathi leaves. I decided to sprinkle some of this powder on a pappadum, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Traditionally, many Indians sprinkle this powder on steamed white rice, drizzle a bit of ghee or gingelly oil over it, and mix everything together before enjoying it.

Next, a waiter placed a dish in front of me featuring shredded cooked chicken alongside a baked breadstick, and then he poured hot Kozhi Milagu Rasam over it. The rasam offered a perfect balance of flavors, combining the heat of pepper, the aroma of aromatic spices, and the umami richness of the chicken. This rasam is truly a winner!
The starters were truly delightful and captured my attention, especially the Uppu Urundai and Vellai Paniyaram accompanied by Dangar Chutney. Both dishes transported me back to my mother’s kitchen. The Uppu Urundai, in particular, evoked nostalgia as its flavor was remarkably akin to her recipe.

I must admit I was a bit thrown off by the term “urundai,” as it translates to “round,” yet I found myself enjoying these unique shapes. Made from roasted rice flour and infused with tempered spices and salt, this savory snack boasted a mild nuttiness complemented by an inviting aroma. The texture was wonderfully grainy, dense, and compact, making each bite satisfyingly filling. To elevate the tasting experience, it was paired with a zesty tomato chutney that added a burst of flavor.

The Vellai Paniyaram, crafted from fermented rice and white gram, was a delight to the senses. Its exterior was smooth, while the inside was soft and airy, thanks to the fermentation process, providing a truly satisfying bite. The subtle flavors of the paniyaram were beautifully enhanced by the accompanying Dangar Chutney. This chutney had a coarse, thick, and spreadable texture that lingered in my memory long after the meal was over, making this culinary experience even more memorable.

While I was eager to try the Kasa Kasa Yeral, I found the prawns a bit too over-fried for my taste, resulting in a slightly rubbery texture. The prawns were marinated and rolled in white poppy seeds, then deep-fried to give them a captivating appearance. The presentation, however, was a delightful twist! Served in charming paper cones, this innovative serving style truly added a sensational flair to the starter, making it a feast for the eyes despite the texture not meeting my expectations. As a chef with extensive experience researching and studying global cuisines, I appreciate that culinary preferences can vary widely. Many Indians enjoy prawns and even squids with a slightly rubbery texture, as it’s often seen as a hallmark of a well-cooked dish in certain styles. This divergence in taste reflects the rich variety of culinary traditions and personal preferences, highlighting the beauty of food as a form of cultural expression. Understanding these nuances deepens my appreciation for diverse culinary experiences.

After savoring the delectable Salem Mutton Chukka, I dove into a truly exotic dish that epitomizes Tamilian vegetarian cuisine—Maa Vathal Kulambu. While this dish may not have been my top favorite, having enjoyed it frequently in my childhood, the version prepared by the talented female cook at Sangamithirai reignited my passion for it. Each bite was so enticing that I couldn’t resist wanting more, especially when paired with the flaky and buttery Poricha Parotta.
Maa vathal, made from dried and preserved unripe mango, lends a delightful tanginess to the hearty curry. The stone-ground masalas infuse the gravy with a distinctive essence, making this dish a true comfort food that warms the soul. Every mouthful was a reminder of the rich Tamil culinary heritage I grew up with, and it left me craving even more! Many people adore curries made with maa vathal, especially in Tamilian cuisine, where it is cherished for its ability to evoke nostalgic flavors and emotions. It’s common to find families who have enjoyed this ingredient for generations, as it brings a unique, aromatic touch to traditional dishes and I am glad Sangamithrai is glorifying this dish!

BADAM HALWA (almond halwa) and ELANEER PAYASAM (tender coconut payasam) were served for dessert. While the Elaneer Payasam is being served in many Tamilian restaurants these days, it is rare for a restaurant to serve Badam Halwa wrapped in banana leaf. The halwa had a velvety, smooth consistency that melted in my mouth. The addition of ghee contributed to its richness and a slightly grainy texture from the almonds. The combination of the smooth, creamy texture and the enchanting aromas of roasted almonds and saffron made the badam halwa an irresistible treat.
I will certainly go back to Sangamitharai @feathershotel, the next time I am in Chennai.
Sangamitharai Restaurant
4, 129,
Mount Poonamallee Rd,
Manapakkam, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600089, India
Phone: +91 44 6677 6969

